martiniboys.com
July 29, 2008

Nota Bene Review

by Claire Schneiderman

Nota Bene, or for short hand, NB ("Note Well" in English), is a notation that most people pretend to know the meaning of, but in actuality, it signifies the reader to take note of an important point to be made. Nota Bene, the newest venture by Splendido owners David Lee and Yannick Bigourdan, and Toronto restaurateur Franco Prevedello, is striving for the same effect.

From the outset, the restaurant's sleek flat front of dark and light woods, blended with stone and neon green accents, add luster to the guy peddling for change a few feet away, the parking lot opposite the Canada Life building that the restaurant is set in, and the view of the Condom Shop and neighboring tattoo parlor.

This is a Queen West-ified Splendido: precision service, high quality ingredients, but with a much more laid back, edgy, and relaxed atmosphere. In collaboration with high profile architectural firm KPMB, the three owners conceptualized the space, right down to the fabrics used. The result is a high ceiling-ed room, with lower level bar, and private dining area. The majority of the space is decked in blond and dark wood, chocolate coloured seating, and white table cloths accented by colourful abstract art covering many of the walls.

Splendido is a widely successful destination spot, but sometimes, everyone just wants to unwind a bit. So it's no surprise that the newest venture for Lee and Bigourdan is a much lower key affair. They stole away Sous-Chef Geoff O'Connor and Manager Cameron Dryburgh (who is happy not to be coordinating three-hour, eight course meals) for the new place. But make no mistake, this is still a very well executed affair. With Chef Lee running the show, the menu is more accessible, and features gourmet takes on comfort food classics.

For now, the Chef is separating his time pretty equally between his two restaurants, often spending afternoons at Nota Bene, and evenings at Splendido; "You can never love one child more than another; and each has their own qualities," he says. The menu is thoughtfully planned out; smaller dishes are divided between soups, salads, and raw proteins, while mains are heavy on red meat and fish, and includes an exclusively steak section, (which doesn't include the hangar steak and short ribs previously listed.) Vegetarians consider yourself warned.

Like an old fashioned diner, (though these dishes are definitely more upscale than that), there are set daily specials straight off the menu. Friday is a Nova Scotia Lobster Club, with maple bacon and avocado, and Tuesday's selection is a Stilton Beef Brisket Burger with pomme frites. Dinner is more of the same, though more extensive. Chef Lee had originally planned to rotate the menu every season, but having already been in the kitchen for a few days, he plans to switch it up way more than that now. Favourites from the Chef and customers so far seem to be Suckling Pig and Boudin Noir Tart with maple smoked bacon and truffle vinaigrette for its comfort food qualities, "crunch, and richness- it's the real deal;" the Lobster Club, and the Tuna Tartare, with citrus soya, ginger, avocado, crispy shallot bits.

So what sets them apart from every other restaurant doing high styled comfort food classics? Lee suggests it is the staff, who have a respect and dedication for the place and care for the customers. Considering that Splendido prided themselves on their elevated level of service, it will be interesting to see if an appropriate balance can be attained between casual dining experience of a Queen West resto, and the fine dining service many of their customers are used to. "With each day, the staff is understanding the clientele better, and they understand our expectations better," says Lee. Plus, "The space will just make you feel and look good." Do you really need more of a reason than that?

Nota Bene may be a notation at the end of the page, but it is hardly an afterthought.