Taste T.O.
September 4, 2008

Notre Benediction

Story by Melissa Bell

Our Friendly Editor here at TasteTO gently cautions us writer folk about turning in “the gushy review.” So I might be pushing the envelope a bit when it comes to Nota Bene.

This new sizzling-hot spot at Queen and University has had a lot of coverage since its opening last month, so please excuse me if what is written here has been said before. There are only so many synonyms for perfect, fabulous, wonderful, and terrific. Transplendent? Does that work?

The place is stunning – to be expected when one has KPMB Architects as the design team; clean and classy lines, warm woods, intelligent lighting. At 3,000 square feet, there’s no crowding – tables are roomy and well-spaced. On a Monday night, the main dining room is close to full, yet my guest and I have no trouble carrying on a conversation at a normal volume.

We begin our evening with a couple of signature Nota Bene martinis comprising limoncello, citrus-infused vodka, and elderflower water. Seventeen bucks might be a little steep for a drink, but the restaurant has me in its spell. It’s a smart and refreshing combo served in a tall glass with a tangy salted rim. Delicious indeed, but I don’t need a second one. Other creative beverages beckon with clever names like For*Sake*N (sake, lemongrass vodka, and lychee juice) and the Pomme Pilot (apple-lime cinnamon vodka, calvados, and fresh thyme).

Everything looks good on Chef David Lee’s menu – also to be expected from the man who co-owns and heads up the kitchen at Splendido, regarded by many to be one of the finest restaurants in the city.

Nota Bene appetizers include a Nova Scotia lobster salad ($24), mafalda pasta with a mushroom Bolognese ($14), and a fantastic charcuterie platter ($24) that looks (based on its arrival at another table) like an incredible deal.

I choose the ocean trout sashimi ($16) - a pretty plate of silky, sexy fish in the raw, just barely dressed in subtle shades of lime and ginger. I offer some to my guest who balks slightly, not being a fan of the uncooked. One taste of my appetizer, however, and there’s a new convert in our midst. I watch the eyes roll back in his head as the trout melts on his tongue.

Crisp duck salad ($15) is definitely worthy of all the raves it’s been getting. Shreds of moist duck meat, warm noodles on a cool papaya slaw, toasted cashews, and crisp-fried threads of taro, this dish hits all the right notes. My guest recently lamented the fact that “salads are just so boring”. Needless to say he is now eating his words. And the obvious.

Brisket burger ($19) with stilton and smoky onions is a knockout, and arrives with a giant side of frites dusted with fine shavings of pecorino cheese. If only it were mine and not the order of the person sitting across from me. He dives in, coming up for air every so often to emit a sigh or some other sound of pleasure. The Nota Bene burger is a hit.

I have a rough time choosing a main; I want to try everything – the suckling pig and boudin noir tart ($25), the rabbit soffrito with papardelle pasta ($22), the wild Digby scallops with lentils ($22) – next time I’m coming with more people.

My decision of grilled rare yellowfin tuna ($24) is a gorgeous presentation of pink fish and flower petals served atop chopped olives, capers, tiny croutons, and raisins. And I can’t resist ordering my own side of frites ($8). This is food that is full of fresh, bright, happy flavours. There’s a lot of smiling going on at the table.

For dessert, the oft-mentioned quartet of pots de crème is absent this evening. Not that it matters when I order the Niagara Bing cherry crumble ($10); this is a big bowl of Christmas in August – tart cherries, a hint of cloves, and a chunky, crunchy topping of buttery crushed shortbread.

Service is excellent: friendly, helpful, informed. Guest and I decide we love everybody in the restaurant. And that’s not just the cognac talking.

We just simply feel blessed.